TRADITION

Guardians of Pico's Vineyard

Maria João Dias, Journalist  ·  15 Nov 2024  ·  7 min read

There are vineyards that grow alone. On Pico, vines require people. The families who have cultivated heroic viticulture for generations are not merely producers — they are guardians of a knowledge that exists in no manual and is lost if not passed down.

The Transmission of Knowledge

The vintage on Pico has no instruction manual. What exists are conversations between father and son in the curraletas, at dusk, when the Atlantic has already cooled and the grapes still hold the warmth of the day. It is in that moment that one learns to choose the right bunch, to sense the point of ripeness by colour and weight.

António Soares learned from his father, who learned from his grandfather. Three generations in the same basalt parcels, with the same precise gestures. The vineyard does not change. We change — but soon it moulds us back again, he says.

“The vineyard does not change. We change — but soon it moulds us back again.”

António Soares — three generations in Pico's vineyard.

The Legacy That Endures

The greatest fear of Pico's winegrowers is not hail or plague. It is silence. The silence of a vineyard where no one wished to stay, where the young left for the city and the vines were left without hands that knew them.

This is why, at Quintas do Pico, the transmission of knowledge is as important as the quality of the wine. Each tasting, each visit to the vineyard, each vintage shared is an act of resistance — against forgetting, against uniformity, against the idea that fine wine needs no memory.

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